An Asturian village that is accessed through a 300-metre-long cave full of stalactites and stalagmites and with a direct connection to the Cantabrian Sea. The cave, popularly known as Cuevona due to the suffix used in Asturias to speak of what is large, gives access to Cuevas del Agua or Cueves in Asturian, a small town of barely fifty inhabitants located in the region of Ribadesella.
The town is located near the banks of the Sella River and continues to preserve rural traditions due to the isolation in which it has remained throughout its history as it is located behind a cave. This secrecy has also been useful at certain historical moments, as in the case of the fighters who used it to protect themselves for months during the Civil War.
Over time, the ground began to be improved and, finally, given the significant width of the cavity, it was paved to facilitate the movement of the inhabitants of Cueves. It is one of the few caves in the world that can be crossed by car. The mystery accompanies the traveler both in his access to the city and in the village itself.
The sound of the waves
In addition to crossing it with a vehicle, it can also be done on foot after leaving the car in one of the two parking spaces available near the cave and then taking a walk through the village. The cavity is actually a wide and damp stone tunnel, where you can hear the flow of the Sella stream that has dug it at the foot of the mountain for thousands of years.
At low tide, salty ocean water flows into the cave and you can hear the sound of the waves mixing with the underground echo.
Illuminated in sections, a good part of the Cuevona preserves its original structure of limestone formation with stalactites, stalagmites and lava flows that the locals were quick to baptize “the beards of Santiago” or “the devil’s tongue” because of its resemblance to these forms or, directly, based on popular legends. Numerous evidences of prehistoric settlements have been found inside.
Mosses, frogs, ferns and bats
Due to the humidity of the cavity, one can also find animal “inhabitants”, both terrestrial and aquatic such as mosses, ferns and mushrooms, as well as salamanders, frogs and even cave fauna, such as bats, which are increasingly less present.
When the Cave was not lit and townspeople had to pass through it with their livestock, they had to carry a stick to guide them in the dark or hold on to the tails of the animals that served as guides to reach the other side.
Although you can walk comfortably even with children, caution is recommended with vehicles. It should not be forgotten that this is a cave, despite the width of most of the route.
After crossing the Cuevona, we arrive at the town of Cuevas del Agua, which has a magnificent orography as it is located on the banks of the Sella River and at the foot of the mountain.
This lost village preserves the identity of the Asturian rural world like few other places. Although there are some cars due to tourism, the village It retains its charm and its population is mainly dedicated to agricultural and livestock work. Even if there are practically no children, the village gains vitality in summer.
The tranquility of this Asturian town is practically the same as it existed centuries ago: people coexist with horses, cows and chickens in its cobbled streets.
Granaries and bread baskets
Cuevas del Agua has up to five granaries and, together with the neighbouring towns of Tresmonte and Xuncu, offers numerous ethnographic elements.
This traditional architecture is protected, so its owners are obliged to keep it in good condition to the best of their ability, although they receive subsidies for its restorations. The granaries and paneras – with six pegollos or feet – had a key function of storing crops to protect them from humidity and animals.
Traditional houses, granaries and the hermitage of Santiago are the attractions of this small village in the parish of Junco. The hermitage is located just before the train stop and is dedicated to Santiago, who also gives his name to one of the rock formations of La Cuevona.
Mills Road
Likewise, the area offers a wide variety of routes to enjoy the surroundings of the town, such as the Route of the Mills, which lasts three hours and covers almost eight kilometers through the extensive local vegetation. The trail starts from the town itself and is very interesting because it allows you to see in situ a demonstration of the operation of these hydraulic machines from another era.
This journey is very easy and fun for the little ones, especially if the train passes along the way. On the left side there is an improvised path that leads to a suspension bridge under which the Sella River flows.
A little further on you will find Finca Piedramala, a non-profit association, where you can discover the gochu Asturcelta, a native breed of Asturian pigs. After leaving the river behind you, you pass under a tunnel of the FEVE line (Spanish Narrow Gauge Railways) and you must also cross the Caserío de Santiago: a door opens, closes and then you continue on the path.
After this, all that remains is to enter a lush forest populated by birch, chestnut and holly trees, with moss covering the rocks and tree trunks. An almost magical place, where a “trasgu”, an elf from the classical mythology of northern Spain, can appear at any time. Once you have seen the six mills, you can reach Tresmonte, rest a little and return by the same path.
Five kilometers from Ribadesella
In addition, just five kilometers from Cuevas del Agua is the center of Ribadesella. This town is characterized by being at the mouth of the river, forming a beautiful beach, Santa Marina. You can also visit the Tito Bustillo Rock Art Center and tour the old town of the city, of great architectural beauty.
