The health of our hair is a measure of our overall health, and that includes not only our hair, but also our eyebrows and eyelashes. Products intended to stimulate the growth of eyebrows and eyelashes have gained popularity in recent years, in part due to the desire to highlight these areas of the face and frame the eyes. The effectiveness of these products, however, largely depends on the active ingredients they contain, as well as individual factors such as genetics and hair growth cycle.
Eyebrow and eyelash products
There are mainly two types of products on the market for eyebrow and eyelash growth: those that contain chemical compounds derived from prostaglandin analogs and those based on plant extracts and vitamins.
Prostaglandin analogues, such as bimatoprost or isopropyl cloprostenate, are compounds initially developed for the treatment of eye diseases such as glaucoma. However, one of its side effects was eyelash growth, which led to its use in cosmetics.
These compounds work by prolonging the anagen, or growth, phase of the hair follicle, which helps increase the length and, in some cases, thickness of hair. Some studies have shown that bimatoprost products can significantly increase eyelash length over a period of 12 to 16 weeks. However, prolonged use may also cause side effects, such as eye irritation, darkening of the skin at the area of application, and in rare cases, changes in iris pigmentation.
On the other hand, there are products based on natural or less aggressive ingredients, such as peptides, amino acids, vitamins and vegetable oils. These ingredients do not directly stimulate hair growth like prostaglandins do, but rather seek to improve follicle conditions for healthier growth.
For example, peptides such as copper tripeptide-1 can promote the synthesis of collagen and other structural components in the eyebrow and eyelash area, making hair strong and less likely to fall out. Additionally, vitamins such as biotin and panthenol are included to improve the health of existing hair and optimize its growth cycle. However, evidence for the effectiveness of these ingredients on eyelash and eyebrow growth is limited and based primarily on small-scale studies or the theoretical properties of the ingredients.
Castor oil, a commonly used natural product, has long been associated with hair growth, although scientific studies supporting its effectiveness on eyebrows and eyelashes are rare. This oil contains ricinoleic acid, which may have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, creating a favorable environment for hair growth. However, it does not directly stimulate the follicle in the same way as prostaglandin analogues.
In general, eyelash and eyebrow growth products usually come in serum or gel form in small containers with precision applicators, similar to liquid eyeliner or mascara. The recommended method of use is to apply a small amount to the lash line or directly to the eyebrows, usually once a day, in the evening. Nighttime application allows the product to work while the skin rests and minimizes the risk of accidental contact with the eyes.
It is recommended that the area is clean and dry before application to ensure better absorption. It is important not to exceed the recommended amount, as excess product can increase the risk of side effects, and to avoid touching other areas of the face, to avoid dispersion of the serum outside the desired area .
Beware of side effects
The side effects of prostaglandin analogues at the molecular level are due to their action on specific prostaglandin receptors, called FP receptors, present on various cell types in the skin and eye tissues.
These compounds mimic the action of natural prostaglandins, which regulate processes such as inflammation and pigmentation. By activating these receptors in hair follicle cells, prostaglandins prolong the hair growth phase, but they can also trigger unwanted responses.
For example, activation of melanocyte receptors (the cells responsible for pigmentation) can darken both the skin in the application area and, in some cases, the iris. In addition, since they are molecules that also influence vasodilation and the inflammatory response, they can cause redness, inflammation and changes in pigmentation in sensitive tissues such as the eyelids and the conjunctiva of the eye.
Another side effect of prostaglandin analogues, known for their use in the treatment of glaucoma, is periorbital fat atrophy, that is, the loss of the fat that fills the eyelashes, which can cause the Appearance of sunken eyes.
Natural products, although safer, do not have the same support in terms of growth effectiveness, and their main function is to improve the health of existing hair. The choice between one product or another will depend on the user’s expectations and level of commitment, as natural products generally require prolonged use and do not always offer visible results in the short term.
