Popular Catalan cuisine achieves exceptional “cum lauden” in Quirat, with reinterpretations of classics such as “cap i pota” topped with espadrilles to achieve a unique sea and mountain; some lentil compotes with shrimp whose heads are served separately and grilled, or the musician’s dessert reinvented with nougat and nuts accompanied by muscat ice cream which is also offered in a porrón, so that the experience of the innovative tradition is complete. These are just three examples of dishes that become exotic for both locals and foreignerswho literally go crazy discovering the exoticism of evolved traditional flavors.
The restaurant run by Víctor Torres, who was the youngest chef in Spain to receive a Michelin star at Les Magnolies (Arbúcies, Girona), also received a star this year when the guide’s jury considered that Quirat is an authentic embassy of luxury Catalan cuisine in the Catalan capital. This is the gastronomic establishment of the five-star InterContinental Barcelona hotel, located on Calle Lérida, next to the Montjuïc exhibition center and accessible directly from outside or through the hotel’s dazzling lobby .
There is a reason why the restaurant is called carat in Catalan, which is the unit of weight of a diamond, pearl and other precious stones that is equivalent to 200 milligrams, and when referring to the most precious metal, gold, it indicates its degree of purity, 18 carats being the most common and 24 carats the purest. Quirat’s space is inspired by precious stones and geological geometries. It has an exclusive dining room for up to 60 people and a lounge for twelve guests whose walls are made of glass and metal with a personalized texture and offer the octagonal background of the inlaid floors. A space topped with diamond-shaped chandeliers and extensive use of shiny materials make guests feel like they’ve stepped into a life-size geode.
This fall, the The tasting menus served at Quirat only in the evening, from Tuesday to Saturday, are called 18K and 24K.on this occasion they are differentiated according to the number of dishes that make up each one: the first shorter, with eight dishes (110 euros and 40 more with agreement) and the second longer with 13 dishes (160 euros plus 60 with agreement).
Proximity and Irish duck
Víctor Torres boasts of being close to the producers of the territory, with the exception of the duck breast which constitutes the main meat dish, since it is a duck from the Irish company Silver Hill Ducka company which is characterized by the breeding of animals in freedom to devote them exclusively to the consumption of their meat and not their liver. Pau Santamaría, son of the late chef Santi Santamaría, is the one who personally selects the best seasonal vegetables, legumes and mushrooms, while the tuna belly comes from Balfegó, the fifth generation of fishermen from Ametlla de Mar (Tarragona) who raised in the high seas and which has single-handedly become a supplier of the best bluefin tuna, guaranteeing exceptional quality that is even admired by the Japanese.
Although the restaurant leans towards the 18k menu, the reviewer recommends ask sommelier Albert Señor for the autumn vermouth with which the 24K menu starts because it guarantees a very good start. It is a Dos Deus from Priorat with infusions of Montseny mushrooms for 72 hours and served with a light anchovy toast. The bread comes from Solà, which is only used in restaurants, and the oil from Salar de Arbúcies is an extra virgin oil obtained from the recovery of the local variety from the north face of Montseny.
Among the entries, the oyster with white garlic, macadamia and pickled grapes prepared from a fresh specimen and accompanied by the popular creamy cold soup made from macadamia nuts and a touch of acidity from the grapes, complementing the eel tartlet with egg yolk. The pairing in these preliminary stages is well resolved with a Reserva Essential Púrpura from Juvé & Camps, a cava from the classic blend of the Xarel·lo, Macabeo and Parellada varieties.
The lamb cheek with mushrooms from today’s harvest surprises with its texture and the subtle addition of galta, but the next pass, the “Cap i Pota” with espadrilles, is sublime by synthesizing the tradition of Catalan cuisine with the innovation of incorporating seafood also known as sea cucumber or cucumber, which adds a marine touch to the blend of authentic sea and mountain ingredients. The main course is duck breast with coffee sauce, salsify and melanosporum truffle, where the juicy and tender meat of the Irish duck is complemented by a deep coffee sauce, while salsify and truffle add complexity and elegance to the dish.
More Catalan essence
The lentil compote with shrimp and suquet with the head aside served on the grill, and the 24K dish of fricandó of tuna belly and trumpet of death, a creative interpretation with its traditional sauce and a base of chestnut cream which combines the juiciness of tuna with the earthy flavor of mushroom, which provides an umami experience, a Japanese expression formed by combining umai (delicious) and mi (flavor). The wines that accompany these passes are the red of the Abadia Monastery of Poblet, the DO Conca de Barberá of 2019 and, then, the Scala Dei of Priorat with which the duck goes very well. Another dish on the 24k menu is sticky carabinero rice and black botifarra.
In the dessert section, in addition to the cardamom and mint apple served with solid yogurt bubbles, The one with sobrasada and anise is surprising, a mixture of Majorca and Girona which looks like xoxobut it’s actually a donut filled with fresh sobrasada dipped in Anís del Mono and very sweet. The sobrasada comes from Torres’ family, “because in our country, there are eight massacres a year,” he explains. A few years ago, the chef married Neus Fradera, daughter of Isidro Fradera who thirty years ago created Les Magnolies, a restaurant which is now also starred but which has retained a loyal clientele since his father-in-law was in charge, which is why the Torres always has gutters available “and everything necessary” that is requested, beyond the tasting menu for which it received its first Michelin star.
Gebre is the icing on the cake
The highlight of such a feast is having a glass of 40 references of Spanish whiskeys or the 120 most international that they have in Gebregel in Catalan, the cocktail bar of the InterContinental Hotel itself which in itself constitutes another design gem and reason to visit. A large bar presides over the first floor of the Avenue Rius i Taulet hotel of this cocktail bar named after the icy dew of the night. Also visible from the street is the gigantic bottle display with translucent glass and polished metal panels. The offer includes classic cocktails, as well as a signature craft cocktail menu in a luxurious ambiance and art deco decoration. The ideal icing on the cake for a gourmet dinner.
