Ferhat Cartall is located in the center of its residential studio in an old apartment in Kroyzberg. Sunlight appears through dark floorboards, from an open kitchen, a loud, bright, metal sounding tones, over which a pressing buzzing wind instrument is pressed. Cartall throws into his knees: “Now she celebrates the wedding!”, He calls elegantly, connects a piece of a sample of fabric from his mood board and begins to dance the traditional Kurdish folk dance – in a slow motion to the melancholy melody of the singer Zozan.
Just a few days ago, a fashion designer from the Turkish part of Kurdistan returned from his native village of his family, very close to Batman. He visited relatives there, supported a friend of Serbes Salikh, who fled from Rohava, who founded an analog photo studio for young refugees as a project to provide assistance. “I brought with me a new design based on the clothing item that was adapted to me in my youth when I first visited Kurdistan,” said Cartall: “It took days because I worked with others. But it was a home feeling to be able to work in my native language. ” Ferhat, Tu Agir, I am over Kurmans-Korekh, you, you, told me.
In the language of Ferhat Cartall, many of these exaggerated poetic excellent degrees are hidden. Of course, they swing in clear, cool sentences in which the words light up as soon as they describe people in their lives.
His whole collection is unisex
The son of the Kurdish immigrant was born in Sella in 1978, Lower Saxony in the family with many brothers and sisters. Love for the language is already cultivated at home – for Kurdish and German, as Ferhat emphasizes Kartal.
It grows in Bilefeld, specializes in graduation, begins tailors: “I liked it! I had an obsession. I used a strong stream of my parents for a sewing machine, we have friends – we always had new clothes and appearance. ” Cartall is due to the idea of becoming a fashion designer. He goes to London to visit the College of Central St. Martin, without a folder and without money for study: “I wanted to see it at least once.” Kartal does not need a degree, success also occurs. The young tailor quickly makes a career. He travels from Munich to Berlin, Hong Kong, Shanghai, Tokyo, around the world. Cartall becomes a leading designer in large German houses. Staynes, squadron, rainbow shell of Arenim.
Then the crown comes. While the world is standing, Cartall is reoriented, like many. In 2022, he launched his first collection. Initially, without the intention to sell. “It was an experiment, an attempt. It was not about profit, but to combine my work with culture. ”
Cartall talks about his life and his decisions in tough, decisive words, with the authority of polite elegance. “It was about a subtle, textile expansion of the language. Fashion can convey. My works are more than just clothes. The poetry of the Kurdish language lives in them. ” This applies partially literally.
His works have names. “Hozan” is called wide trousers. On Kurmans – this means “intellectual: r, poet.” Just like the collections of Kartal, the Kurdish language does not know the floor by name. His whole collection is unisex. Ferkhat baptizes his models, inspires them with the names of his family and friend: inside: another trousers after the Kurdish friend of Serbest, whose name Freedom and Independence means the shirt “Demhat” – “The time has come, the new era has begun” – after the brother “Camilla” after the stylist Camille Richter, both professionally and in private, the long -standing concern for the designer.
What becomes with trousers and a blouse when the third part comes, Ferhat Cartall demonstrates here
Photo:
Ferhat Cartall
Ferhat Kartal is based on his drive
Contractions are developed, silhouettes geometrically, high -quality materials. Wool, silk, heavy fabrics, soft textures, complex weaving. The textiles used by Kartal are mainly the remaining margin of luxurious productions from Italy, “dead shares”. He extends it through his old contacts “from industry”, produces it Sample piecesSamples of models, this shows in changing exhibition halls. Only when buyers ordered: the collection is included in production. The result is small publications, the bodies of the client: adapted inside, without the cost of storage and excess of the remaining objects.
Here too: there is no place for doubt. It is not in itself, not in fate, and not that formalities are not important that it is more than commercial success – also or even if the famous group of investors Tomorrow Group London is looking for discussions with him.
Ferhat Kartal is based on his movement. His projects are based on his system. He does not follow the logic of industry or art. Ferhat Cartall does what Ferhat Cartall does. Everything is contrary to and is contained along with neatly chopped seams. Fashion, language, poetry, centuries of Kurdish culture and three second spirit of the fashion industry. “I am not interested in the current trends. People, music, art-i draw inspiration in it, ”says Cartall and vaguely interpreted regarding the press of Rupprecht-Giger on his wall. In addition, the old woman looks softly critical of the photo in the room. “Da sve” – mother serves. My grandmother. She is always there. North means Apple. “
There she is again. The heat of the rogue. Jacques, intertwined between severity and almost children’s abundance. The designer puts a small sculpture on the table. Two people, long as a palm, nearby. Both wear the same clothes. “I bought this sculpture in Indonesia. This is the king and Queen Timor. Later I realized that they could also mean parents to me. See how strong and spherical they are. They always lived in the feminism of Kurdistan. What should they wait for people? It is also in my plan. Feelings.
Something from these words remains in the room. He sits firmly in clothes, like a fragrance. Fashion communicates. Fashion protects. Fashionable sets limit. Shelter for melancholy. Textile manifesto for freedom of thoughts – and love. Cartall follows: “There is a song by musician Beito Kan from the time when Kurdish music was prohibited in Turkey.“ Her Vira ”. This does not mean, everything is fine, but everything is here. ” And then Ferhat Cartall laughs again. His loud, rude, warm laugh.
