The south of France has a portal to the Middle Ages. This region of the country is full of history, which can be discovered during a three-day visit. A whirlwind tour of Carcassone, Saint-Cirq Lapopie and Rocamadur, among the most beautiful towns in France. From these villages, located on top of the mountain and surrounded by rivers, one can see an unprecedented landscape. Towers, castles and medieval residences take us back to a world of stories and legends.
Carcassonne
The Porte Narbonnaise and the Porte d’Aude allow you to travel back in time to 2,500 years ago when entering Carcassone. Situated on a hill in the French region of Languedoc-Roussillon, the medieval city dominates the entire city.
It is one of the best preserved medieval complexes in the world and has two properties declared world heritage by UNESCO: its Medieval Citadel and the Canal du Midi. It is easy to conjure up fairy tales and dragons among the hundreds of stones that form walls, ramparts, towers and gates.
The old bridge is one of the obligatory stops in Carcassonne because from there you cross from the lower part of the city to the medieval Citadel. From this point you have one of the best views of the Citadel, especially at night, when the ancient part is illuminated and looks like a movie. Around the bridge we will find several car parks to park the car.
The best time to visit the Citadel is early in the morning, when there are fewer tourists, although there are also night tours to discover the medieval city with the magical touch given by the paper lanterns used. Fall is a warmer season to explore these cobblestone streets.
Carcassonne was restored in the 19th century in one of the first restorations for tourism purposes in history. The architect and archaeologist Eugène Viollet-le-Duc was interested in this ancient impregnable citadel and reconstructed it based on historical plans and documents.
In this old part there is a museum of objects excavated over the years; the basilica of Saints Nazaire and Celsus, in Romanesque-Gothic style; and the Château des Viscounts and the adjacent walls, built in the 12th century by the Trencavels and modified over the following centuries.
Another essential visit is along the Canal du Midi, one of the most beautiful and oldest in Europe. In the past, its activity was essential for the inhabitants of Carcassonne. It was built in the 17th century to connect the Garonne to the Mediterranean Sea, becoming the only means of transporting goods, mail and passengers. It is best to sit by the canal with a picnic to watch the sunset.
Another must-do in Carcassonne is to try Cassoulet, a kind of duck stew prepared in an earthenware pot over low heat.
Rocamadour
Legend has it that in the stones of this great cliff above the Alzou river are the relics of Saint Amador, Rocamadour has therefore become a place of pilgrimage. The monumental village stands on a mountain which, in turn, was dug to house part of certain chapels.
Up to 12 small churches were built, of which only seven have been restored. One of them, Saint Sauveur, is surprising because it has two altars and is divided in two so that the nuns and brothers do not share space, although the most popular shrine is that of Notre-Dame de Rocamadour. It is a small chapel presided over by a black virgin and with models of ships suspended from the ceiling since marine miracles were attributed to this image. Both have been declared World Heritage Sites by UNESCO.
Nailed to the cliff is a sword which, it is said, is that of Roland, who, before dying at Roncesvalles, threw his metal companion far away so that he would not fall into the hands of the enemy, according to the legend.
Outside the religious domain, near Rocamadour is the road of wonders, a cavern with prehistoric cave paintings. There is also a visit to the walls of the castle-palace, at the highest point of the place, and from where you can have a privileged view of the entire complex. At night, we can also take the little train which allows us to see Rocamadour lit up.
A stone’s throw from this French commune is the Gouffre de Padirac, the first enclave of underground natural heritage in Europe. You have to go down 103 meters underground by elevator or on foot, then walk through the underground galleries until you reach the pier, where you can enjoy a boat ride. The river opens onto the Grande Pendeloque, an impressive stalactite 60 meters high, which overlooks Rain Lake. You then reach Lake Gours and the incredible mineral cathedral Salle du Grand Dôme, whose vault rises like a cathedral, 94 meters high.
Saint-Cirq-Lapopie
Chosen by the French as their favorite town in the French country, Saint-Cirq Lapopie is built on a rock 80 meters high above the Lot river, at the bend of its mouth with the Célé river. The Quercy mountains and the Lot valley protect it.
The second part of the name, “Lapopie”, comes from the mountain on which it stands and which, according to the first inhabitants of the place, had the shape of a breast. In this rock there remain some traces of the castles of the three noble families who shared the city in the Middle Ages.
By climbing the steps leading to the rock you can admire the medieval village, but also the Lot valley with its mills, dams, ports, locks and the famous towpath. This path is dug into the rock between Saint-Cirq Lapopie and Bouziès, along the river.
Once at the top, the traveler is immersed in medieval times, among alleys steeped in history and houses dating from the 12th to 15th centuries. There are 13 Historical Monuments cataloged in this town. Just stroll through the narrow streets, intimate gardens and small and large houses where handymen, skinners or turners once worked.
André Breton arrived in Saint-Cirq-Lapopie in 1950 and made it a magnet for artists. Breton’s appeal has survived his generation, attracting artists to the present day thanks to the Daura house, a building already classified as a historic monument and now a summer residence for young artists.
Another way to discover the city and its history is to take a cruise on the Lot. The visit takes place on a barge a few kilometers from Saint-Cirq Lapopie and continues along the towpath to the town, passing through the locks.
Another must-see is the Pech Merle cave, about 11 kilometers away. It is a cave decorated with paintings from prehistoric times and represents one of the most important places of Paleolithic art in Europe.
