Original labels, wines that are accessible to both the palate and the pocket, light and fruity vintages, a greater offer of whites and bubbles… Supermarkets are adapting to new consumption patterns and trying to seduce, even though purchases decrease throughout the year.
A context of consumer crisis
There is no miracle on the horizon for supermarkets or hypermarkets. Their wine fairs are opening in a delicate economic context, marked by a growing decline in consumption. Bottles of red wine are the main victims. According to the National Interprofessional Committee for Wines with Designation of Origin and Geographical Indication (CNIV), their sales in supermarkets increased from 5.1 million to 3.5 million hectolitres between 2017 and 2023. Consequence: the section reserved for wine has lost an average of 1.3 metres in 2023, the equivalent of 16 references, according to Olivier Dauvers, a specialist in mass distribution.
The loss of momentum was already felt at the fair a year ago. A study by NielsenIQ, published in December 2023, found a 4.9% decrease in volume sold between the 2023 edition and the 2022 edition and, worse still, a drop of 8.4% compared to the excellent result of the 2021 wine fairs in terms of value. However, the decline is less pronounced due to the general increase in prices. Thus, total turnover for the 2023 edition fell by only 2.3% compared to the previous year.
Controlling price increases
Since 2022, the increase in manufacturing costs for certain materials (glass, labels or wood for barrels) has been reflected in the price of bottles in shops. This year, supermarket brands are trying to contain this inflation, especially during this wine fair, by choosing more vintages at low prices. They are strongly highlighted in the catalogues.
E.Leclerc, the leading trade fair brand, is proud to offer a selection of bottles at an average price of €11 this year, compared to €11.75 last year. And the proportion of affordable vintages is noteworthy: among the 65 “Incroyables E.Leclerc” that make up its flagship selection, 45 cost less than €10. Intermarché, for its part, offers an offer ranging from €2.15 to €890, noting that, of the 1,777 references offered, 1,300 are under €15, i.e. a higher share than in 2023.
Lidl, in the same sense, mentions “A bias that will satisfy most when we know that one in two French people says they have a budget of 6 to 10 euros per bottle”. This brand really delivers “35% of white label references (…) in response to the inflationary context »Auchan highlights 331 wines for less than 5 euros and Casino 60% of its offer for less than 8 euros, with an average price of 9.55 euros. Organic is no exception, Biocoop claims 54% of its wines between 5 and 10 euros.
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