The world of moisturizers is diverse, with options ranging from supermarket products for a few dollars to name-brand creams that can cost hundreds of dollars. This price difference begs the question: is it really worth paying more for a premium moisturizer, or can you get similar results with a cheaper option? The answer depends on several factors, such as the ingredients, the research behind the product, the marketing, and the sensory experience.
How Moisturizers Work
Oddly enough, there is no consensus on the definition of a moisturizer. The term “moisturizer” itself is a neologism coined by Madison Avenue advertising companies in the 1960s, giving the mistaken idea that these products hydrate the skin. In reality, the skin is impermeable to water, and therefore no cream can truly hydrate it, as a classic dermatology text explains. The function of creams is different: to prevent the skin from drying out.
The surface of the skin that you can touch is made up of twenty layers of dead, flattened cells, called the stratum corneum. This layer is like a wall: the dead cells are the bricks, while a mixture of fats, such as ceramides and cholesterol, and proteins such as collagen and elastin, are the mortar that holds them together.
However, environmental damage such as sun or aging causes this “mortar” between cells to deteriorate. This can cause the barrier of dead cells to no longer be impermeable, cracks to appear and therefore the epidermis, the living part of the skin underneath, to lose water.
Since ancient times, humans have used an obvious solution to protect their skin: anointing it with oils. The skin already has hair follicles that secrete sebum, a fat that acts as a natural waterproofing agent. However, a layer of fat on the skin forms an additional barrier to prevent dryness.
This solution is effective, but impractical. Few people want to walk around with oily skin, and most cosmetic products avoid this feeling. For this reason, the industry has focused on achieving different sensations on the skin using different formats. Here are the most used:
- Oil: Its texture is dense and can contain natural ingredients such as jojoba, argan, almond or rosehip oils, as well as synthetic oils. The problem is that by clogging the pores, they can aggravate problems such as acne. Some so-called non-comedogenic oils, such as argan, do not have this drawback.
- Serum: Its water-based or slightly oily formula is designed to quickly penetrate the deepest layers of the skin, with a high concentration of active ingredients such as vitamin C or hyaluronic acid. It does not have a primary hydration function, but is used to treat specific problems.
- Lotion: Lotions are lighter emulsions of water and oil, designed to moisturize the skin without leaving a greasy feeling. They have a less dense texture than creams, making them easier to absorb, but penetration is more superficial.
- Gel: Usually water-based, it absorbs quickly without leaving a greasy residue. They are used in products such as facial cleansers and anti-inflammatory treatments, such as aloe vera gel, known for its soothing and healing properties.
- Ointment: This is a product with a fatty base, usually composed of oils or Vaseline, which gives it a very dense and sticky texture. It is mainly used on extremely dry, damaged or irritated skin areas. They are used for chapped lips or hands.
- Butter: Cosmetic butter, such as shea or cocoa butter, is a solid fat that melts on contact with the skin and turns into oil.
Minor differences, disparate prices
One of the main differences between budget moisturizers and more expensive ones is the ingredients used. Cheaper moisturizers are typically formulated with a base of common, widely available ingredients, such as petrolatum, glycerin, and mineral oil. These ingredients are effective at sealing in moisture in the skin, but they typically don’t contain active ingredients intended for anti-aging or spot correction.
At the more expensive end of the spectrum, we find creams containing exclusive or rare active ingredients, such as peptides, ceramides, low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, advanced antioxidants such as stabilized vitamin C, and high-quality retinoids. These ingredients are often backed by clinical studies demonstrating their ability to improve skin elasticity, reduce wrinkles, or even out skin tone. However, these studies may be sponsored by the brands themselves, raising questions about the fairness of the results.
There are exceptions. Some independent research supports the effectiveness of these ingredients in skin care, such as hyaluronic acid, which has been shown in clinical studies to improve hydration and the appearance of wrinkles. Hyaluronic acid is hydrophilic, meaning it attracts moisture and prevents it from being lost through the skin.
Another important aspect is the research and development behind each product. High-end brands often invest in scientific research, clinical trials and dermatological testing, especially to discover new active ingredients that they can patent. Instead, supermarket brands often produce creams based on standard formulas that have been used for decades, even if they are no less effective.
Marketing greatly influences the price of the product. Luxury brands spend huge amounts of money on advertising, which is reflected when purchasing them. This extra cost has nothing to do with the effectiveness or quality of the product, but with the amount charged by the famous person who advertises it, among other things.
Many dermatologists agree that the basic benefits of hydration can be achieved with less expensive products, as long as they contain key ingredients such as noncomedogenic oils, glycerin, or hyaluronic acid. One study compared the effects of three commercial moisturizers of different brands, formulations, and price points on older adults, then measured skin moisture retention, and found no significant differences.
Another study of children with eczema published by the prestigious medical journal The Lancet also found no difference in moisturizing power when comparing lotions, creams, gels and ointments. They all did the same thing: deposited a layer of fat to prevent moisture loss from the skin. Dermatologist Divya Shokeen explains on her TikTok channel that in the case of moisturizers, the price difference is not significant. However, it is advisable to spend a little more when buying serums, since those with a higher concentration and different active ingredients are usually more expensive.
A study compared the effectiveness of moisturizers with large price differences: one of them was 90 times more expensive than the cheapest, again with similar effectiveness. The researchers concluded that in the end, it depends on people’s preferences. It should be added that it also depends on your pocket.
