Although Spain is full of places where very good wine is produced and in some cases this drink has a notable weight in the history, culture and economy of the region, it is enough to remember stroll through Bordeaux to understand why this city in southwest France is known as the world capital. of wine. A title that they proudly defend and that projects like the Cité du Vin, a museum dedicated to it, and its wide gastronomic offer, help to consolidate.
But in reality, seeing the wine glasses on the bar tables and on the terraces is what marks the character of this town on the banks of the Garonne. For this reason, wine can be the best guide to discovering Bordeaux and its surroundings, both for wine lovers and for those who are simply looking for an excuse to get to know the region.
The city of wine
It is precisely this transversal proposition intended to please both great amateurs and the simply curious which is the raison d’être of the Cité du Vin, which we approach – we admit – with a certain skepticism. What can this bring to those who have already visited dozens of wineries, read information about wines or know fermentation, barrels, etc. by heart?
The experience is interesting and can be a good first step and contact with the world of wine. The visit is dynamic and as short or long as you wish, although the average duration is around two hours. Opened in 2016, this museum recently renewed its permanent exhibition, which occupies the entire second floor of this building of more than 13,000 square meters spread over eight floors and whose design has become one of the architectural symbols of Bordeaux.
The types of wines, the production areas, the keys to production or the importance of wine throughout history are some of the questions addressed in the 18 thematic spaces of this exhibition where the protagonist is wine in the world , and not just that of Bordeaux or France.
Entrance costs around 17 euros and includes a glass of wine served on the top floor, with panoramic views of the city. In addition to the exhibition space and the various workshops and experiences sold separately, a stop at its store, well stocked with accessories and wine documentation, is also worth the detour. Its wine cellar also, with a very wide range and well-adjusted prices, particularly in Bordeaux references.
Wine in Bordeaux and surrounding areas
After immersing yourself in wine culture, it’s a good time to fully immerse yourself in Bordeaux’s gastronomic offerings. It’s certainly spacious and while it’s true that the average ticket price is a little higher than in Spain – not much if we’re talking about Madrid or Barcelona – there are options for almost every budget .
The lunch menu (a sort of daily menu) is an infallible resource for eating at a good price and can be found in many restaurants in the city, both in the historic center and in Chartrons, one of the most recommended neighborhoods to stay. .
But if we really want to make wine the protagonist, it’s best to choose places where the food is almost a complement to the wine list by the glass. A very popular format and perfect for both a snack and a real dinner.
Among the many options, two are worth a visit in our opinion. The Wine Bar is one of those pleasant surprises found in what could well be a tourist trap. In a truly impressive establishment, around thirty wines are served by the glass, starting at around 4 euros and, as an option, to accompany them, cheeses, pâté and local charcuterie. It’s not uncommon to find a bit of a queue, but it’s worth it and especially no terrace, the beauty is inside.
Le Sobre Chartrons is also committed to this idea of wines by the glass, but in this case with a wider gastronomic offer, a very well stocked cellar with bottles at store prices which can be purchased and, paying the corkage, drunk well . there and a self-service machine to taste different wines. Located near the always lively promenade that runs along the banks of the Garonne and not far from the photogenic Place de la Bourse, it’s not a bad plan for a dinner in Bordeaux.
As always, going to the markets is also always a good idea to discover the city. In this case, not so much for the wines as for the atmosphere of the Capucins market, in one of the oldest and most popular areas of the city. Sit at the Bistro Poulette bar and order the mussels (mussels) of the day, accompanied by a generous platter of fries and a glass of house white wine is an unbeatable plan. At noon it’s complicated, so it’s better to anticipate French lunch time or try later.
Cellars and oysters
Taking advantage of the trip to visit one of the many wine estates near Bordeaux is usually a common option when visiting the city. There is no shortage of guided tours of all kinds that organize these excursions and, among other things, eliminate your own vehicle from the equation; which is always essential when it comes to tasting several wines.
Saint-Emilion, about 40 kilometers from Bordeaux, is an interesting destination because it not only has many wine estates that are part of this AOC (Appellation of Controlled Origin) but it is also a beautiful medieval town that is worth a stroll beyond its wines.
The choice of one or another winery will depend on many criteria, so it is best to choose whether you are interested in a specific wine or, failing that, to be guided by practical questions of distance, d ‘visit schedules… Unless there is a great interest in the world of wine, and beyond the history and architecture of each of them, the truth is that visits to the cellars tend to be very similar to each other, so by visiting one of the larger houses in the area and another smaller one, we will be more than served.
Let’s not forget that if the goal is simply to taste wines, the most comfortable thing is to go to some of the places mentioned above in Bordeaux where you can find dozens of glass references without having to travel , although it is true that some of the castles of the most emblematic cellars are truly spectacular. Everyone has their own times, visiting days, prices, so a little advance planning will be necessary if you want to get it right.
It must be taken into account that the Bordeaux wine organization system is more complex than that to which we are accustomed in Spain. That is to say, we are not talking about a Bordeaux wine like we can talk about a Rioja, but within this great vineyard there are five different regions – Saint Emilion is one of them – and no less of 65 AOCs which describe not only the territory, but also the varieties, the qualities… It is a really interesting subject for those looking for additional reading to prepare or accompany their trip through the region.
Beyond wine, the coastal area of Cap Ferret is also worth a visit during our visit to Bordeaux. There we find the famous Dune du Pilat, the highest dune in Europe. Among endless beaches usually populated by surfers, people come here above all to enjoy a calmer pace than in the city and, of course, for its oysters.
The colorful wooden cabins that dot this cape and the Arcachon Bay are simple beach bars where the menu is more than clear: oysters and local white wine. Because yes, Bordeaux also produces wonderful white wines that you absolutely must taste. Indeed, in the end, everything here always ends up revolving around wine.
