He cultivates it manually in the Canary Islands and sells his cereals for €80/kg.

His family keeps him La Laja Estate for at least 200 years old. Here in the Agaete Valley, ideal conditions for cereal growth exist thanks to its volcanic soil and current microclimate. Just 255 kilometers from the African continent and almost seven thousand kilometers from Colombia, this place is the closest thing to Ax Coffee that we have near Europe.

Has anyone ever said the phrase “How much the comfort we would find if we revealed our secrets”. Victor Lugo knows this very well. While he takes care of EL ESPAÑOL on the farm, he is constantly visited by tourists who come to learn more about the production of this hidden and special grain.

Additionally, the culture is minimal. “1,200 kilos per year”Victor said. And not so productive. Coffee requires a lot of rest and “cocooning” for months to be good. “We export our coffee to more than 30 countries and we don’t pay anything for transport,” Víctor explains, smiling, as a group of Slovenian tourists walk among the plants. “We don’t pay because they take it.”

THE arabica plants The typical ones are demanding: they need shade, constant humidity and careful harvesting. Each plant takes approximately three years to ripen, and the entire process, from planting to roasting, is artisanal. At Finca La Laja, the coffee is grown slowly, preserving a process that many other producers have long abandoned in favor of faster techniques.

Inside Agaete Valley, where around 40 other families also grow coffee artisanally, the coffee bean can only be purchased in person, which adds exclusivity to a product whose price exceeds 80 euros per kilogram.

History and biodiversity

The farm, located between the sacred mountains of Gran Canariais home to orange trees, avocados, mangoes and vines that coexist with coffee plantations. “Here coffee is a fruit”said Víctor, proudly observing the coffee trees loaded with red cherries. “From seven kilos of cherry coffee, we obtain barely one kilo of roasted and ground coffee.” Tourists, mainly Nordic, are fascinated to see a coffee tree for the first time in their lives and observe the whole process, from harvesting to grinding.

Agaete coffee follows a tradition uncommon elsewhere in the world: the drying process is “by the dry route”a technique that reduces water consumption. The cherries, once picked, are placed on African flower beds to dry in the sun for 25 to 30 days. Víctor specifies that, although in large coffee growing areas such as Colombia or Brazil, the wet method is used – which requires high water consumption – in the Canary Islands it is not viable due to the scarcity of the resource. The slow drying technique they use, although laborious, helps preserve the essence of each grain and contributes to a more sustainable crop.

In the middle of the farm, a small roastery operates with precision. When the green coffee reaches 180 degrees, Víctor and his team transfer it to the roasting drum. The operation must be carried out carefully; A medium roast is essential for the coffee to retain its original notes. “We are not looking for Italian toast, we prefer something softer, which respects the natural aroma,” he explains. The result is a bean with a velvety taste and low acidity, which appeals to the most demanding palates and makes this coffee an exclusive gem.

Romantic house

A few meters from the farm is Romantic house, the restaurant of Lugo family. Founded in 1976 by a Swiss couple who fell in love with the valley, the restaurant was acquired by the family in 2019 and transformed into a gastronomic interpretation center. Here, local cuisine mixes with international flavors, in a menu that pays homage to the products of Gran Canaria. “All the ingredients are local: the oranges from the farm, the wine from our grapes and of course the Agaete coffee.said Víctor, proudly showing the Casa Romántica menu.

Casa Romántica was designed with a philosophy of sustainability. The family has implemented composting practices, uses recycled materials and minimizes the restaurant’s carbon footprint. In addition, the center has a coffee museum which shows the production cycle and offers the visitor an experience that goes beyond the culinary: a sensory tour of the 21 municipalities of the island through its typical products.

“We want Casa Romántica to be a reflection of Gran Canaria”Victor said. His dream is to one day obtain a green or red Michelin star, recognition of his commitment to the environment and local culture. On its walls, each dish tells a story and each ingredient connects the diner to the Canary Islands.

A legacy that lasts

Víctor dedicated his life to Finca La Laja, which his grandparents acquired over two hundred years ago. His philosophy is simple and powerful. “We receive an inheritance and we must return it equal to or better than we found it”said. This vision of respect and care is embodied in every aspect of the farm, from the coffee fields to the restaurant, and is why their coffee remains unique.

“For me, it’s not a theme park”Victor said. “Here it is not just about teaching, but about living and experiencing the tradition in an environment that remains active and true to its history.” The farm is not just a place of work; It is a corner where each visitor witnesses an ancestral process that connects the past and the present.

He coffee of Agaète It is a sample of the diversity of Gran Canaria and the potential of its resources. In a world increasingly dominated by mass production, Finca La Laja and Casa Romántica remind us of the value of authenticity and craftsmanship. With each cup of coffee, the visitor tastes a tradition that has spanned generations, preserved by the Lugo family with dedication and passion.

As the tour group says goodbye to Victor and heads toward the exit, many take with them bags of coffee and bottles of wine, souvenirs of a trip to the heart of European coffee. Victor smiles, satisfied. He knows that every grain, every visit and every story shared is part of a legacy that he, as guardian, is determined to protect.