A moonless night, a fog to cut with a knife: the International City of Gastronomy and Wine of Dijon could not dream of a better atmosphere to celebrate, in these first days of November, the day of the deadthe Mexican Day of the Dead, adorned with fun skeletons and a cheerfully macabre altar. After Lyon and Paris, the Burgundian city was the third stop that hosted, this year, the Qué Gusto Festival, dedicated to Mexican flavors. And visitors were as surprised by the artificial skulls with colorful makeup as by the culinary specialties.
At one stall, we could try Purokao chocolate, made in the Mayan style by a French couple: a thick disk made of unrefined, full-bodied cocoa, to melt in water or milk. Just opposite, we discovered another tricolor brand, Salsa, combined with more or less spicy artisanal Mexican sauces, cooked with peppers grown in Deux-Sèvres. Meanwhile, at the Cité restaurant we tasted dishes imagined by chef Lydia González: chilies stuffed with fresh cheese and pickles, or beef fillet in a sauce flavored with sotol, a brandy with herbaceous notes. A slap in the face, even for the most jaded sweet tooth.
“Mexican gastronomy remains little known in France, laments Ximena Velasco, founder of the Qué Gusto Festival. It is still confused with Tex-Mex cuisine, born in Texas, in the southern United States, based on wheat tortillas – we use corn tortillas, except in northern Mexico – and red beans – we prefer black ones – , cheese. similar to cheddar cheese, while in our country fresh cheese predominates. In short, Tex-Mex is a distant variation, very fatty and salty, of what is really made in Mexico. Some specialties attributed to us, such as chili con carne, are pure inventions. »
Declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO since 2010, Mexican gastronomy is just beginning to conquer the French. But, in general, it is associated with taqueriasestablishments specializing in tacos. However, these small corn pancakes are, remembers Ximena Velasco, just a “a way of eating, like a sandwich, and not a dish in itself”. The country has much more to offer, as demonstrated by a new generation of chefs. We could almost write “cheffes”, because it is the vast majority of women who bring this cuisine to France, like Carla Kirsch López, who offers a gourmet menu in Lyon, in a hacienda-style establishment, Alebrije, backed by a 100% brigade feminine.
You have 67.45% of this article left to read. The rest is reserved for subscribers.
