At Paris Fashion Week, the show sometimes takes place less on the catwalk than in the public. On September 27, in the Loewe tent installed on the esplanade of the Chateau de Vincennes (Val-de-Marne), there will of course be the usual celebrities, among them the actor Daniel Craig, who, with his colorful suit, There’s nothing James Bond about it anymore. But there is also an abnormally high number of designers, who sometimes work for competing groups: Nicolas Di Felice (Courrèges), Kris Van Assche, Adrian Appiolaza (Moschino), Sarah Burton (Givenchy), Pieter Mulier (Alaïa), Pharrell Williams ( Vuitton). )…
In the front row we also find Marta Ortega, president of Inditex, the group that manages Zara; Delphine Arnault, CEO of Dior and daughter of Bernard Arnault, as well as the latter’s wife. And Anna Wintour, editor-in-chief of the American edition of Fashionwho generally has no time to waste with “little” brands. If we stick to the figures, Loewe, which belongs to LVMH, is one of them: in 2022 it had a turnover of 626 million euros, when Louis Vuitton exceeded 20,000 million euros that same year. The one who loves this beautiful world is designer Jonathan Anderson.
A young man in his forties, who spent eleven years at the head of Loewe, demonstrated his talent and imposed his conceptual and unconventional style. Under his tutelage, the brand, which had fallen into oblivion, made a name for itself in the fashion circuit and its original bags in the shape of a puzzle or cube ensured strong growth for the brand. It is well known that the Arnault family appreciates him and intends to keep him in the group; The participation, the amount of which is unknown and which he took from his brand, JW Anderson, is not insignificant since it complicates the recruitment of the member. creator by a competing group.
crinoline dresses
The question that must have been on the minds of a certain number of guests at this parade was the next step. After more than a decade of success at Loewe, the ambitious Jonathan Anderson has the right to seek another position, at a more prestigious LVMH house, such as Dior or Louis Vuitton. The place is not free at the moment. But in fashion we are never safe from radical change.
While he waits for the horizon to clear, the Irishman has done his homework and presented a brilliant and risk-free collection, the best of what he does best: flowy floral crinoline dresses, pants oversized trench coats draped and cut above the belt, sweater dresses that look shrunken in the wash, coats whose raised sides look like they were carved in stone… A beautiful architectural wardrobe, sprinkled with a dose of pop culture and craftsmanship, with, for example, feather t-shirts with the image of Bach or Mozart. A good part of the room, including the Arnault family, stood up to applaud the impeccable work of the patient prodigy.
