Point by point, the fashion sector of Castilla y León is weaving its future. And this on the model of what was once a flourishing industry in a land which, already in the ancient times of the Mesta – at the time of Alfonso X the Wise in the 13th century – was a reference in terms of wool. One place to talk about textiles was Béjar (Salamanca) in the middle of the last century, when more than 5,000 workers were employed in a manufacturing activity that took advantage of water currents to power the turbines of their fabric factories. From Zamora, from León, from Burgos… But the decline has come, although a thread of life has always been maintained in which a sector that, with tears, has known how to “personalize” itself to adapt to fashion changes. Of course, not always known. It is precisely for this reason to “give visibility” to an entire sector which goes well beyond the catwalks and encompasses from the textile industry to clothing, including design and schools, this is what the “Uniendo Moda” project aims to achieve. An initiative supported by the Board of Directors and the CEOE, knowing that it was “a relevant sector within our Autonomous Community and that we want it to be so again”, declares Teresa Cetulio, Secretary General of the Spanish Confederation of Business Organizations of Castile and Leon. But also, he adds, “discover all the projects that are being carried out”. “Promote the Castilla y León fashion brand,” he sums up the Director General of Commerce and Consumption, María Pettit, of a project with a vocation for continuity which is already drawing new ideas.
From the catwalks to the backstage. An initiative “which establishes synergies between all entrepreneurs and fashion designers at the level of the different provinces, which pools needs, opportunities and different opinions that can be achieved to further develop the sector”, emphasizes Pettit. A project, he emphasizes, that extends beyond parades – which also – like those organized this month in Burgos as part of “Espacio Moda” to claim the “Made in Castilla y León” label.
A project which also seeks to weave a network between all the pieces to create a solid model. Connecting schools and designers with brands and textile companies that go beyond runway dresses. The fabrics, the carpets that cover the floors of hotels and planes, the systems to reduce the acoustic impact… also come from an industry based in Castile and León, “less known” and on which the emphasis is also put. A “map of what we have” is being prepared to position all the initiatives, numerous and varied, with more than half a thousand companies linked to the sector.
Of course, “very atomized”, agree Pettit and Cetulio during the x-ray. And, recognizes the Director General of Commerce, a sector which suffers from a lack of knowledge even among the links in this chain. And after a year of operation, “we noticed that there are companies in Béjar that do things that others in Burgos perhaps did not know about.” Hence the emphasis they wish to place on promotion, both internally and especially externally. From the ministry, underlines the Director General of Commerce, they are clear that they must do and be present at more events in Madrid, Barcelona or even Paris. “At the end of the day, that’s where the customers are,” he emphasizes.
This year, a dozen companies from the Community participated in the Km0 Moda show organized in Madrid as part of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid, “an opportunity to establish strategic contacts, discover emerging trends and explore new business opportunities. The result, Cetulio points out, is that these companies “almost constantly receive job and project offers” for their brands of shoes and clothing in pure merino wool, metal buttons, embroidery, linings, wool… “Our companies stood out.” also for that “how we do things in Castilla y León”, values the general secretary of the CEOE.
Its “traditional, sustainable and local” character, in addition to “impressive talent”, “know-how and quality” are values that stand out from the autonomous government of a sector which is gaining more and more weight and in which they put emphasis on making it shine even brighter. It is not for nothing that with 504 companies and 2,300 people affiliated to Social Security in the fashion field, it represents almost five percent of the industry in Castilla y León. But, they emphasize, “we must fight to increase this percentage”, aware that it generates employment and activity. Another of his figures which supports the bet: he bills more than 200 million euros annually. But “I think there is still a lot to do and move forward so that this sector reappears and has the visibility it needs here and also abroad because it has a lot of room to continue to grow”, is convinced Cetulio. companies that left come back, that young designers and entrepreneurs can go out to learn, but they come back.
A quality that boasts Carlos Rodríguez Arias, fifth generation of Cipriano Rodríguez Arias Fabrics and Fabrics, one of the companies that survives in Béjar. And, he laments, the sector’s industrial activity “has fallen dramatically” over the past quarter century or so, when fabric production also shifted to Southeast Asia, “from areas where the remuneration for work is very minor.” . Even if, he emphasizes, it is Europe and also Spain which “impose fashion”, manufacturing moves to China, Thailand, India, Egypt… which caused serious injury. They, with more than 180 years of history, remain, with nearly 25 employees, but nothing to do with a not so distant past of which there remains the memory and the illusion that Béjar is becoming what it was again. But for this, he cries, we must “return to national manufacturing” and demand that, for example, in the contracts that the administration launches for uniforms – in which this city of Salamanca has made its strength – the conditions are not so exclusive as to leave without options those who, for years, have demonstrated their value and capabilities. “They took it from us and turned us into dust,” laments Carlos. Thus, at 66 years old and fifth generation in the company founded in 1842 by Cipriano Rodríguez-Arias, He sees it so dark that he doesn’t want a sixth to take over. “I don’t even know how we support ourselves,” he admits. Remember that they “adapted to the times” and eliminated the services they previously provided – they eliminated weaving to which four other companies in Béjar were dedicated – to now concentrate on spinning and finishing.
Shorter rides and luxury are part of the lifeline they have clung to in a company that, despite the difficulties of the moment, continues to be “leader” in its sector. “If work arrives, there is still capacity”, because in Béjar, where an industrial school was created in the 19th century, this “knowledge” and this capacity to do “the whole process” are maintained, defends this veteran.
Fashion, textiles as a whole, “is a sector that gives visibility to Castilla y León”, emphasizes Cetulio, which is why they consider it “important” to increase the intensity of attention granted, that is why he now contributes and for the potential he presents. “On the part of the Junta de Castilla y León, we will support all the companies that want to establish themselves” in the Community “because it benefits everyone,” defends Pettit, who highlights the commitment to “fight” for “maintain” the tissue that is already there. , for those who left to return and opportunities for those who enter this world.
An example is the Young Designers Competition, whose winner of the last edition was able to exhibit his creations this year. Manuel Pérez Rivera, 22, from Valladolid, exhibited his original creations as well as names from this world. María Lafuente, Fely Campo, Ainhoa Salcedo, Raquel Tomillo, Baro Lucas or José Martín. These are just some of the designers who presented their latest proposals in Burgos. All designers from Castilla y León, a land in which fashion brands also take root with their own stores and designs as characteristic as Kilarny.
For the moment, the young Manuel Pérez, a student in Burgos, wants to take it step by step, aware that “producing your brand is very complicated”. He therefore sees himself “working for others” without giving up other, higher aspirations. This year, with the stress and “pressure” to arrive on time, he has already presented eight models on the catwalk where he took care of everything, from design to pattern making. “Totally exclusive” pieces, he insists, aware that limited clothing increases the price, “but it’s an aesthetic that you may like” and this young man who arrived in the world of fashion after obtaining his Bachelor of Science degree and got hooked appeals to this difference. “It’s already part of my life,” he says, grateful for the “recognition and boost of maturation” that this parade of eight looks brings. It’s only just beginning, but it requires “more promotion” so that “the rest of Spain and the world knows us.”
“We must focus on what belongs to us, on our know-how,” defends Pettit, which, while recognizing that “we must adapt to what the consumer wants” and that “fast fashion” now prevails in which “even if it may seem like a lie, people spend a lot of money”, must also turn to what is closest. “I encourage consumers to try to buy fashion in Castile and León, because they might be surprised by the prices and quality,” Cetulio also insists, convinced that indigenous production “is probably very, very competitive “.
