DISNEY+ – ON DEMAND – DOCUMENTARY SERIES
for whom ninety have a taste for adolescence, In vogue It offers a burst of nostalgia that is difficult not to succumb to. Just as it is difficult not to believe, as the people interviewed for the documentary repeat, that this decade has “everything changed” in fashion, while change is precisely its DNA.
This postulate, neither true nor totally false, constitutes the framework of the six episodes of this series co-produced by the magazine itself, of which four important editors-in-chief are credited as executive producers: Anna Wintour, Hamish Bowles, Edward Enninful. and Ton Goodman. This demonstrates the magazine’s control over the project.
He spared no means to get an astonishing number of celebrities to sit in front of the camera. There we met no less than most of the designers (Tom Ford, Marc Jacobs, Jean Paul Gaultier…) and top models (Naomi Campbell, Kate Moss, Linda Evangelista…) of the time, some “it-girls” (Gwyneth Paltrow, Claire Danes, Sarah Jessica Parker…), big stars (Nicole Kidman), a former first lady (Hillary Clinton), plus a Kim Kardashian sitting there because we have to talk to millennials.
Fascinating topic
The problem is that, with some exceptions, his intervention is purely decorative – special mention to the lighting, skillfully worked to erase as many wrinkles as possible – and is reduced to “The 90s were incredible”, “incredible!” » AND “so iconic”. It is a pity all the more so since the subject, which is that of the connection between a fashion magazine and its era, is fascinating. Under the pretext of remembering how Fashion It is an advance of the transformations of society, the documentary still manages to open some gaps about how fashion is transformed through contact with popular culture, politics and the street.
The most interesting episode is the one dedicated to the union of fashion and hip-hop, through very “preppy” brands (Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger, etc.) that we did not expect in this area. Much less exciting is the episode dedicated to the Met Gala, a social gathering created in 1948 at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, which has become fashionable again since Anna Wintour turned it into one of the most extravagant red carpets in the world. planet.
Beyond the eye candy and comedic potential of certain actors in the field, is Dudzeele’s editor Carlyne Cerf a real person? −, obviously missing In vogue a critical look, and even an iota of lucidity on the subject. In a word, it lacks a director. Even though we looked back and forth through the credits, we never found the name.
In Vogue: the 90s (EU., 2024, 6 × 45 min).
